In James Joyce’s “Ulysses,” Leopold Bloom remarks that it would be a good puzzle to cross Dublin without passing a pub. Colm Quilligan, founder of the Dublin Literary Pub Crawl, doesn’t recommend even trying it.
“When Americans come to town, all roads lead to Temple Bar,” said Quilligan, referring to the pub-rich area on the south bank of the Liffey. “It’s fantastic in the daytime, but transforms into a tourist thoroughfare at night.”
Nevertheless, he tells tourists to get out there and “use your nose.”
“I recommend traveling off the beaten path,” he said.
But can your nose be trusted? Couldn’t it use a little training? After all, picking a pub is no small matter. We queried the experts and gathered the tools you’ll need to sniff out the perfect hoppy Irish odyssey on your next trip.
Vibe check
Courtesy Failte Ireland
For centuries, Irish pubs — short for public houses — have served as hubs where people not only drink, but gather to share news, discuss business, and socialize.
“Irish pubs have an ability to make everyone feel welcomed on that particular day,” said Padraig Fox (aka, Foxy), a Guinness global brand ambassador. “What each and every one of them has is ‘the craic’ — a feeling of shared community. Pubs are a great leveler, whether you’re a local, a tourist or even a celebrity, everyone is treated the same.”
Look for a mixture of ages and backgrounds when you step inside. It’s a good indicator that the crowd is welcoming to newcomers. One demographic that you may want to pay a little extra attention to: “If there’s a lot of old guys at the bar having a pint, then it should be a good pub,” said Quilligan. “They appreciate quality.”
Beware pub pedigree
“Usually, you want an old pub, which means probably 100 years old or more,” said Ali Dunworth, author of “A Compendium of Irish Pints: The Culture, Customs and Craic.”
Give it bonus points for original fixtures, floors, bars, stained glass or a “snug” — a small seating area that originated in the 19th-century so women could drink in private. But wary of exaggerated claims about age.
James Wright, an award-winning archaeologist and author of “Historic Building Mythbusting,” has debunked dozens of dubious “oldest pub” assertions in the UK. In Ireland, he’s also busted the Brazen Head and Sean’s Bar — neither of which are really “the oldest pubs in Ireland” (Sean’s Bar even declares itself to be the oldest in the world).
“Sean’s Bar in Athlone claims to have been open since 900 AD,” said Wright. “In reality, it’s a building of circa 1700 with no evidence of prior use on the site. The Athlone example is typical. Currently, I am unaware of any pubs anywhere making an accurate date claim.”
Get the Guinness
If the beer is good, a lot can be forgiven.
“Guinness doesn’t taste the same everywhere,” said Anthony Malone, director of development at the Irish Exit in New York City. “You are looking for the perfect temperature — not too cold — and a nice creamy consistency in the head. You want that really subtle, gentle roasted flavor.”
While Guinness gets their beer to pubs “as fresh as possible,” said Padraig, the rest is out of their hands. “There is an art and theater to the signature Guinness two-part pour. Guinness lovers are passionate about their drink, and how it is poured is a key part of serving great-looking and great-tasting Guinness, consistently.”
Heed the red flags
One red flag that a pub is strictly designed for tourists? Non-stop music. In particular, “a couple of guys playing ‘Wonderwall’ and those sorts of rubbish songs,” said Quilligan, noting that live sessions of traditional Irish tunes like those at Hartigan’s in Dublin, on the other hand, are welcome.
Another warning sign may be too many TVs, but most experts and sports lovers agree they aren’t a hard no in a country where soccer and rugby qualify as national religions. Similarly, pubs serving Irish stew and fish and chips 24/7 veer into tourist-trap territory. More legitimate gastropubs that double as restaurants have popped up since Ireland’s 2003 smoking ban.
Fan favorites
A walkable city, Dublin’s neighborhoods and side streets are populated with a sea of pubs from Harcourt to Stoneybatter. Some of the most popular with tourists and locals alike are the Gravediggers, which got its unusual nickname because gravediggers from the neighboring cemetery used to come in for drink after a hard night’s work, and Kehoes, where writers like Samuel Beckett are said to have bellied up to the bar. The Victorian charm of the Stag’s Head and the Palace Bar, complete with a skylight and stained glass, make it worth venturing to Temple Bar.
Just don’t forget to explore outside the capital.
“Each town and city has their own brilliant spots,” said Padraig.
A few of his many favorites include Taaffes Bar in Galway, the Duke of York in Belfast, Matt Molloy’s in Westport, Dick Mack’s Pub & Brewery in Dingle, Sin É in Cork, Tynan’s Bridge House Bar in Kilkenny and Mother Macs in Limerick.
“You won’t fit them all in, but it’s always good to have a reason to come back, right?” Padraig rhetorically asked.