UPDATED: There’s a reason why Halden is the only town in Norway to be mentioned in the country’s national anthem. It has a long history of being caught up in border conflicts and needing defense from attack, making this year’s Constitution Day celebrations on the 17th of May particularly relevant amidst war elsewhere.
On Saturday, the residents of Halden (called Haldensere) could join Norwegians all over the country in celebrating their constitution, their democracy and their freedom. Those are things not to be taken for granted, especially given the last three years of attacks by Russia on Ukraine and all the other conflicts in the world.
Until 1905, though, Halden was among Norwegian cities and towns finding themselves dominated first by their country’s Danish rulers, then by Sweden. Parts of the Halden municipality’s outlying areas are still literally surrounded by Sweden on three sides in the southeastern region of Norway, and Halden’s central areas share a fjord with their neighbour over the border. That earlier dragged Halden (which had been renamed Fredrikshald by one of Denmark’s many kings named Fredrik in 1665) into the hostilities between Denmark and Sweden.
And that’s why the fourth verse of Norway’s lengthy national anthem is always sung in Halden on the 17th of May and other occasions: Swedish troops under King Karl XII conquered the town in 1716 but not its Fredriksten fortress, and the residents of then-Fredrikshald set fire to their own homes as part of their hometown’s defense. The Swedes were ultimately overpowered, prompting the writer of the national anthem to suggest that patriotic Norwegians would rather burn their own cities than see them fall, “just remember what happened down in Fredrikshald!”
It’s a verse that was sung again this year, amidst all the traditional flag-raisings, canon salutes, parades and speeches. And from Kirkenes and Svalbard in the far north to Trondheim in central Norway and Haugesund, Bergen and Oslo in the south, Norwegians celebrate their cherished national day pointedly without any military displays.
Relations with both the Danes and the Swedes are friendly now, arguably more friendly than ever given all their shared democratic principles and mutual support for Ukraine. All three Scandinavian countries are now members of NATO, too, and cooperating closely on boosting defense while addressing the ever-rising Russian threat.
As late as 1905, though, Norway and Sweden came close to a new war of their own. Norway had demanded withdrawal from an unhappy union with Sweden, formed in the early 1800s after Denmark had to give up its claim to the Norwegians. Norway formed its own constitution in 1814, which Sweden had recognized, but remained under the Swedish monarchy and lacked its own foreign policy. The tension that rose throughout the late 1800s stirred up the potential for more fighting along the Norwegian-Swedish border, not least in Halden.
A new war was averted, however, and Norway could finally establish its own foreign ministry and monarchy (ironically by adopting a Danish prince who became the new Norwegian king). Fortresses set up along the border to Sweden could eventually be decommissioned, some even torn down. Troops already inside Halden’s impressive Fredriksten fortress didn’t need to fire any shots.
Canons remain up at the fortress, however, and are still ceremonially fired on the 17th of May. They used to be pointed at Sweden, from what looks like the rear side of the fortress but which actually was its original front. Today the fortress is mostly used as a venue for various concerts, opera and cultural events. The public can freely wander all around it, amidst warnings to stay away from the tops of steep fortress walls, and it’s become a major tourist attraction with around 300,000 visitors every year.
A traditional canon “salute” was fired at noon on the 17th, and was the site of speeches by Halden Mayor Fredrik Holm and the fortress’ Commandant Åsmund Hanevik. The fortress was also ready to host children and their parents for fun and games in the afternoon.
NewsinEnglish.no/Nina Berglund