Brands you need to know if you want to nail subversive style

Cop Copine, the Parisian cult label founded in 1986 by Alain and Léon Nédélian, is defined by dark colourways, deconstruction and gothic femininity. Known for clean, structured shapes infused with unexpected textures, prints, and asymmetry, the brand crafted minimalist yet playful pieces.

Cop Copine’s mesh tops, vibrant prints, and graphic knits continue to gain renewed popularity on resale platforms like Depop and Vestiaire, often selling for £70 to £150 depending on style and rarity.

Under Demna’s creative direction, Balenciaga took subversive dressing to new heights – marrying avant-garde silhouettes with streetwear edge. This vision culminated in iconic moments like Kim Kardashian’s all-black, head-to-toe Balenciaga look at the Met Gala, which grabbed both widespread attention and headlines across the globe

King of cool Rick Owens has carved out a unique same in the fashion world for his hauntingly gothic designs. Each season, the American designer continues to shock and enthral with his brutalist minimalism, which challenges the norm through exaggerated silhouettes, distressed fabrics, and a rebellious edge.

Punk pioneer Vivienne Westwood shook up the British style set with her anarchic aesthetics. The visionary’s outrageous, politicised collections pegged her as one of the greats, championed for her use of subversive themes executed by clashing fabrics and frothy, unexpected textures. 

90s collections such as Pirate redefined rebellious elegance with its theatrical pirate-inspired silhouettes and rich historical references.

Likewise, her Mini collection combined playful proportions and punk attitude, delivering edgy, youthful pieces that challenged mainstream fashion norms.

Helmed by Belgian creative Martin Margiela, Maison Margiela has become synonymous with art house style – adored by fashion students across the globe. Margiela’s work boldly went against the grain, embracing deconstruction, anonymity, and reinvention. 

His iconic Tabi boots, inspired by traditional Japanese footwear, challenged conventional silhouettes and have since become a cult favourite, widely celebrated by fashion editors and trendsetters for their avant-garde yet wearable design.

Never one to shy away from a touch of controversy, Jean Paul Gaultier certainly made his mark on fashion history. The designer’s iconic cone bra, popularised by Madonna, became a symbol of empowered femininity and rebellion. 

In his provocative spring/summer 1993 Chic Rabbis collection, the French creative sparked serious controversy with the religious symbolism of the runway offering. Likewise, his use of nudity, demonstrated by his signature tattoo mesh pieces, continue to surprise and intrigue throughout his career. 

One to watch, Turkish brand Dilara Findikoglu burst onto the style scene with its muted palettes, skin-baring designs and that spoon dress. The London-based brand seamlessly marries punk panache, gothic references, Ottoman embroidery, and occult symbolism. A Central Saint Martins alum, she champions feminist and political narratives through daring, handcrafted couture pieces with a devoted global cult following.