This underrated coastal sweep has wildlife-rich waters and small towns filled with boutiques and swish cafés
As I look out over the frothing swells of the Irish Sea, bathed in a warm, honeyed glow, I can’t help but feel a little smug about the perfect timing of our evening stroll along the craggy cliffs.
The sun is sinking quickly, casting a dazzling kaleidoscope of colour as golden hues melt into deep sapphire over the coastline of Cardigan Bay, creating a cinematic scene that would rival the Mediterranean. It strikes me that it’s just the two of us here, just me and my husband Luke, taking in this spectacular sunset with barely another soul in sight.
Perhaps that’s because Cardigan Bay remains one of Wales’s most underrated stretches of coastline, sandwiched between the headline-grabbing beauty of Pembrokeshire and the Llŷn Peninsula. In 2023, Time Out magazine even dubbed its main town, Cardigan, the “most underrated” spot in west Wales.
I’ve come to explore some of the highlights of the vast curve of Cardigan Bay to seek out its foodie offerings, wildlife-rich waters and small towns filled with boutiques and swish cafés.
Here, you can experience Wales as its most authentic self, zipping between secluded bays to spot dolphins, trekking the coastal path and feasting on piping hot fish and chips in small fishing villages.
The relative remoteness of Ceredigion—and its communities’ proud, resilient character—has long made this coastline a stronghold of Welsh language and culture, where you can visit ancient castles, shop for local crafts and try local produce at a food festival.
This begs the question: why battle the crowds in Cornwall this Easter when you could be discovering Cardigan Bay’s wild, underappreciated beauty instead?
Here’s my guide on the best things to see and do.
Go on a wildlife-watching boat trip
Cardigan Bay stretches over 129 miles, from Bardsey Island off the Llŷn Peninsula in the north to the wild headland of Strumble Head in the south. It’s home to the largest population of dolphins in Europe, and its rich waters are a haven for wildlife, including seals and seabirds.
For nature lovers, this is the best place in Europe to spot dolphins—especially if you’re skimming over the waves on a fast-paced RIB ride through the bay’s choppy waters.
We booked a budget-friendly Bay Explorer boat trip with local pros, ‘A Bay to Remember’. Departing from St Dogmaels, this hour-long trip wizzes you around the shore on high-speed RHIBs, where your knowledgeable skipper will keep their eyes peeled for wildlife.
Bouncing over the waves, we spotted Herring Gulls and razorbills swooping through the air and landing on rocky outcrops. We soon sped past Mwnt, a sandy bay that’s one of the best places in Ceredigion to spot dolphins.
As the boat stopped and bobbed on the waves, we could see distinctive dorsal fins in the distance, slicing their way through the turquoise waters before vanishing out of sight.
Next, we headed to secluded, pebbled bays where Atlantic grey seals lounged lazily on the rocks.
These resident seals are easy to recognise thanks to their distinctive heads—their scientific name even translates to “sea pig with a hooked nose.”
It was spectacular to watch these curious creatures in the wild; I had no idea there were so many of them in Wales, snoozing along the shoreline and barrelling through the waves. It was an unforgettable end to our wildlife adventure.
Explore the town of Cardigan
Cardigan is a traditional Welsh market town with a creative streak—a place steeped in history yet buzzing with indie vibes.
As the birthplace of the Eisteddfod, Wales’s most important cultural festival, the town has long been a hub for storytelling, music, and art. Wander its streets, and you’ll find charming cafés, proper pubs, and a thriving collection of independent shops and businesses.
At its heart sits the beautifully restored Cardigan Castle, perched along the banks of the River Teifi. This ancient Norman fortress, originally rebuilt in 1244, underwent a £12 million transformation in 2015, reviving its role as the town’s crowning centrepiece.
With a history spanning more than 900 years, the castle has weathered many brutal power struggles between Wales and England. Today, it’s a vibrant heritage site featuring a museum, restaurant, open-air concert space, and Grade II-listed pleasure gardens.
After visiting the castle, we swung into the award-winning Crwst for a well-earned coffee and sweet treat.
This beloved bakery, run by husband-and-wife duo Catrin and Osian, is renowned for its Turkish eggs, pancake stacks drizzled with Pembrokeshire sea-salted caramel sauce and homemade cakes.
I couldn’t resist the Rum and Banana French Toast loaded with brule banana streaky bacon and topped with creamy Barti Rum Caramel ice cream, which I declined to share with my long-suffering husband. I’m not in the least bit sorry.
Feast on fresh fish and ice cream in Aberaeron
Postcard pretty Aberaeron is known for its colourful strip of harbourside buildings, but the small town is also a haven for foodies.
Fresh fish and seafood are sold right by the water at The Hive, while the restaurant serves up squid, crab, pulled pork, and steak with zero hesitation on big flavours.
The Hive is also home to the legendary Honey Ice Cream—made on-site by master ice cream makers Kevin and Mateusz.
This distinctive, creamy ice cream is hands down my favourite ice cream in all of Wales. One scoop, and you’ll see why it has a cult following.
Just across the harbour, Y Seler plates up big views and bold flavours. One of Aberaeron’s top-rated spots, it’s all about chilled vibes and standout seafood—Carmarthenshire mussels, pan-seared scallops, cod, shrimp, and sea bass all make a regular appearance. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What’s On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here
Hike the coast path
The Ceredigion Coast Path is one of the most rewarding sections of the 870-mile Wales Coast Path.
Stretching for 60 glorious miles between Ynyslas and Cardigan, it offers some of the most varied terrain and scenery on the entire route—ranging from soft dunes and sandy coves to craggy cliffs and windswept headlands.
This waymarked path can be walked in seven manageable sections, each ending in a village or town with accommodation and transport options.
You can take on the full route over a week or choose shorter sections like New Quay to Aberaeron or the 11.7-mile stretch from Cardigan to Aberporth, the section we tackled.
Highlights along the way include the dramatic headland at Mwnt, the birdlife of Birds Rock, the tidal island of Ynys Lochtyn, and the expansive Ynyslas dunes.
Wildlife sightings are common—watch for bottlenose dolphins, seals, and even porpoises along the pebble-strewn cliffs and coves.
The trail’s southern end begins in Cardigan, where the Ceredigion and Pembrokeshire Coast Paths meet. Once the largest port on Wales’s west coast, this historic town gave its name to Cardigan Bay.
A bronze otter statue marks the official start of the route, standing beside a quayside wall inscribed with poetry by local writer Ceri Wyn Jones.
As you leave town, the path follows the north bank of the River Teifi, passing farmland and the likely site of the original wooden Cardigan Castle, hastily built to control the river and access to the sea.
The route continues past the Cardigan Golf Club and the Victorian-era Cliff Hotel—once part of a grand vision to turn this coastline into a rival to Brighton.
From there, it’s a clifftop walk toward Aberporth, with panoramic sea views and a coastline dotted with caves, sea stacks and rock formations with evocative local names like Hatling Bigni, Pen Peles and Pencestyll. These rocky markers were once essential reference points for mariners navigating this wild stretch of coast.
Visit Poppit Sands
Poppit Sands is a wide, dune-backed beach at the mouth of the River Teifi—an ideal spot to kick off (or wrap up) your Coast Path adventure.
This Blue Flag beach is loved for its golden sands, big skies, and sweeping estuary views.
There’s paid parking by the shoreline, public toilets, and the brilliant Crwst beach café, where you can grab coffee, cakes, and locally made ice cream between sandcastle sessions or post-hike refuels.
Beyond beach days, Poppit is a great base for coastal wildlife watching or breezy walks along the shore.
Just inland, you’ll reach the riverside village of St Dogmaels, where the ruined abbey adds a dash of medieval drama.
Pick up picnic supplies from the local shops or settle in for a meal with estuary views at The Ferry Inn—a waterside pub worth lingering for.
Where to stay in Cardigan Bay
Harbourmaster, Aberaeron
Crowned Wales hotel of the year by the Sunday Times for its “old splash of style and substance,” this striking boutique coastal hotel overlooks the Georgian quayside in Aberaeron.
First opened in 2002, it features 13 rooms spread over three historic harbourside buildings, which were originally used as a home and office for the Harbourmaster.
Seven original rooms in the former Harbourmaster’s residence command great sea or harbour views with features including rolltop tubs or balconies.
You can also stay in the large warehouse-converted rooms with stylish bathrooms, sofas, and lift access or across from the main building in a self-catering cottage.
Book here
Cliff Hotel & Spa, Cardigan
If you’re after a coastal getaway that combines dramatic ocean views, pampering spa time and easy access to some of Wales’ loveliest beaches—say hello to the Cliff Hotel & Spa in Cardigan. Perched high above the sweeping waters of Cardigan Bay, this cliffside hotel has the best coastline views.
The hotel is perfectly positioned for exploring the Wales Coast Path (bring your walking shoes!) and the peaceful trails that wind along the River Teifi.
Dolphins and Atlantic grey seals are regulars in these parts, so keep your camera handy and ask the hotel staff how to book a wildlife spotting boat trip.
Inside, things are cool, calm and coastal-chic. Think soothing neutral tones, modern design with a splash of marine style, and locally sourced artwork that adds charm.
One of the main highlights here is the spa. Tucked away underground, it’s an intimate space designed for serious relaxation and we just loved it.
You’ll find a hydrotherapy pool, steam room, sauna and bubbling hot tubs, perfect for unwinding after a coastal walk or a dip in the sea.
Treatments include everything from signature massages to mini facials, making it easy to carve out some time for yourself during your stay.
Book here
Teifi Waterside Hotel, St Dogmaels
The Teifi Waterside Hotel is the perfect spot to unwind after exploring. Its recent renovation has brought a fresh, modern touch while keeping all the charm you’d expect from a coastal Cardigan Bay retreat.
Located in St Dogmaels, just 300 metres from Poppit Sands Beach, it offers stunning sea views and a peaceful vibe perfect for a relaxing break near the ocean.
Along with swish rooms, the hotel’s menu features fresh, local ingredients from nearby farmers’ markets and fishermen. It’s all about supporting locals, and it shows in the flavours.
But it’s not just the balconies and large decked areas that make this a great place to enjoy a tipple outside—there is also a jetty for customers who plan to arrive in style by boat.
Book here
Albion Aberteifi, Cardigan
Perched on the riverside in Cardigan, The Albion Aberteifi blends seafaring charm with maritime design. Named The Best Place to Stay in Wales 2023 by The Times and The Sunday Times just four months after opening, this swish spot is the latest project from the team behind fforest.
Each en-suite room feels like a captain’s cabin—with reclaimed wood-panelled walls, 150-year-old oak floors, Welsh wool blankets, custom furniture, and river views from every window. Breakfast is served in the relaxed resident lounge, where you’ll also find cocktails by night and coffee and cake by day.
Yr Odyn restaurant offers weekend dining in the guest lounge and is soon moving to a beautiful new riverside space next door. Across the river, fforest’s Pizzatipi and cosy Smwglin pub are just a short wander away.
Book here